El Camino Day 13

,

Today’s walk was challenging. Very cold with temperatures down near 0ºC with constant rain, wind and the occasional hint of snow. It was super cold walking and my hands in the useless gloves were very cold. I had to constantly keep the fingers moving to get the blood to flow. I kept the pace of walking up as well to keep warm. It really was not a nice day for a walk. Anyway, we made it safe and sound to our destination for the evening, Belorado.

Weather forecast for Belorado showing mixed rain and snow with current temperature at 2°C. Prediction indicates temperatures dropping to 1°C by 7pm, with a high chance of snow.
Yikes!

The stay at the monastery in Santo Domingo was very nice and the nuns were so hospitable and friendly. We started our day with Mass in their chapel and a simple breakfast before we set out.

A quiet interior of a chapel with wooden pews, featuring a small altar with religious icons, candles, and a figure praying in solitude.
The convent chapel

The nuns were around the corner to the right separate from the rest of the congregation which was Ron and myself with two other ladies.

A person walking down a narrow cobblestone street flanked by historic buildings, with balconies and shop signs, under a grey sky.
Walking out of Santo Domingo

Rain was forecast for the whole day. The iPhone weather app was quite correct in its predictions for the day. It was raining when we left town and didn’t let up the whole walk which came in just under 25kms. The scenery combined with the weather did not at all provide great photo opportunities so from the outset I’ll say the photos for today look pretty bleak and miserable.

A stone bridge arching over a shallow, grassy waterway, surrounded by trees and shrubs, under a cloudy sky.
Crossing the bridge out of Santo Domingo
A gravel path leading through a rural landscape, bordered by a bare tree on the left and open fields on the right, under a cloudy sky.
The path out of town

The wind was blowing a gale here as there was no protection around us. The fields were bare, freshly ploughed for next season’s crops. The gloves quickly let the water seep through and the fingers got cold pretty quickly. I put my walking pole away so that I could concentrate on keeping the fingers moving so the blood circulated properly. That helped a heap as well as keeping pace to stay warm.

The path for today followed the main road that is a link between Logroño and Burgos. Plenty of semi-trailers passing us by. Not the most scenic walk in that regard either so it was probably a good thing for the rain and weather to do its thing today and hopefully clear for our next scenic walking day.

A large black cross stands beside a muddy road with a metal bench nearby, overlooking a wide, foggy landscape of fields and distant hills under grey skies.
Looking back to Santo Domingo from a hill with this monument at the top
A solitary figure walking along a narrow, wet pathway bordered by roadside barriers, with rolling hills and farmland in the background under a cloudy sky.
The blue skies weren’t there for long at all, the wind blew them away
Interior of a church featuring an ornate altar with intricate carvings and gold accents, framed by high vaulted ceilings and stone walls. Floral arrangements are placed in front of the altar.

Amazingly this church was open and we were able to pop in for a visit and look around. Many of the churches don’t look like much from the outside but once you step in the interior and ornamental artwork is just beautiful.

A winding rural road alongside bushes, leading through expansive farmland with rolling hills and a distant farmhouse against a grey sky.
The Camino path took us through open fields once again

Wind still blowing a gale here, so open and unprotected. We were walking with about 10 other pilgrims at this point. Not altogether but spread out along the path in viewing distance.

A gravel road leading through a rural landscape with green fields on one side and a harvested field on the other. In the distance, several advertising signs are visible against a cloudy sky.
The border of Castilla y León up ahead

Today we leave the province of La Rioja and enter into Castilla y León which is denoted by the signs up ahead. Not much fanfare here just a blowing gale. It’s quite a large province with some major towns to pass through. Burgos, León and Astorga just to name a few. Many days will be spent walking through this province. Hopefully with more pleasant weather.

A hiker walking along a rural road with a large backpack, surrounded by foggy fields and distant hills.
Ron bracing against the wind, more pilgrims up ahead
A quiet country road stretches through an open, farmed landscape under overcast skies.
Here we had snow but it was probably more slush, nothing romantic about it
A close-up of a man wearing a rain jacket and beanie, with a wet beard, looking at the camera. In the background, another person walks along a gravel path in rainy weather.
Cold and wet. Grey in more ways than one. Ron in the background
A gravel country road with a muddy surface, lined by grass and a fence, leading towards a roundabout in the distance, with fields and hills in the background.
Belorado up ahead just around the corner

Such a relief to have home for the night close by. Wet, cold and totally over it by this stage of the walk.

A gravel pathway leading towards a hotel and restaurant, with greenery and trees on either side, set against a grey sky with distant hills in the background.
Walking into town, nothing glamorous, snow on the mountains in the background

Made it to the hotel finally with all the clothes wet. Thankfully both Ron and I have some great gear to protect the packs from getting wet and the water entering and soaking all the contents. I suppose that no matter how waterproof the clothes are water will seep in eventually. Even the shoes which were sold to me as waterproof eventually succumbed and the squelch was with me for the good part of the day. Just hoping I can find a better pair of gloves in Burgos when I get there.

Tomorrow’s walk is about 30kms. It’s not forecast rain so we might as well take advantage of the fact and walk as much as we can to get ahead and get the kilometres up. We might take a day off in Burgos but we’ll see how we go.

That’s it from me today. Sorry it’s a bit bleak post. A bit like the current weather.

Thanks for reading.

For a map of today’s walk you’ll find it below.

Buen Camino! 😊

Comments

One response to “El Camino Day 13”

  1. Kees Avatar
    Kees

    Sorry about the useless gloves.
    When you have the right gear in cold or wet weather it’s a bit more bearable.
    Hopefully you’ll get some better Spanish weather.

Discover more from James Altham

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading