James Altham

Adios Bercianos del Real Camino – El Camino Day 11

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We had everything drying on the hotel heater last from yesterday’s rain including our boots. It was really damp when we arrived at the Albergue last night. We braved the damp and cold and went out for a burger and pizza at the local haunt for dinner. I wore my $12 BigW slip-ons (very fashionable) as I did not want to put my clean feet back into wet boots. Four of us in total at the pub including the bar man, one other patron and us. We needed fuel for the next day so this was the only option. Food of late has been carb heavy. A lot of bread and patata frittata. I ended up with a pizza and Ron a burger, they seemed to be the safest options. It was sufficient enough and as we were in the middle of nowhere, our best option.

View of a courtyard with potted plants, outdoor furniture, and a colorful entrance gate.
Our hotel grounds, not exactly the Ritz
A pilgrim with a backpack stands outside a red brick building in a rural area, with a cloudy sky above.
Leaving the hotel in the morning

I joke about the look of the outside of our accommodation but it really was okay once we were inside. It was warm, clean and the shower was good. They’re the main things. It also got us out of the rain and we could dry our clothes.

A misty morning scene showing a winding road along a partially damp landscape, with autumn leaves and a weathered building featuring a green staircase and balconies.
Leaving town, not Mayfair
A misty morning view along a dirt path lined with trees, leading toward a winding road in the distance.
El Camino path out of town

It was a misty morning and the clouds hung heavily from the day before. Thankfully there was no rain. It was damp and cold. 1ºC as we were heading off.

The guide book and map showed we were to follow the road for about 27kms today. It was exactly that with not much variation unfortunately. The trees next to the path have obviously been planted there to provide shade for the pilgrims passing in the summer months.

A person walking along a misty path with trees lining the sides, fields visible in the background.
A heavy mist hung for most of the morning
A misty landscape showing a dirt path bordered by bare trees alongside a foggy road, creating a tranquil but cold atmosphere.
More mist
A misty pathway alongside autumn-colored trees, featuring a 'Camino de Santiago' sign, indicating the way for pilgrims.
Good to know we’re on the right path
A misty pathway lined with fallen autumn leaves, leading towards a bridge in the background, surrounded by fog.
A bridge to break up the landscape
A misty scene under a concrete overpass with fog obscuring the background and wet ground, featuring a grouping of stones arranged to resemble an arrow on the path.
Good scene for a murder or a hip hop music video, take your pick.
A misty path lined with trees and colorful autumn foliage, leading towards a faintly visible road in the background.
A lovely Autumn scene, still cold 🙁
A quiet street in a small village, shrouded in fog with low visibility. The scene features traditional buildings lining both sides of the road, including a church tower in the background.
The ghost town I mentioned previously

Today was cold enough for me to not want to take my glove off to take my phone out of my pocket to take photos. I struggled to keep my hands warm and as there wasn’t much change in the landscape I just powered on with no photos.

A misty landscape featuring a path lined with trees shedding autumn leaves, leading towards a distant road.
Mist and Fog has lifted slightly
A misty pathway alongside a dirt trail and road, framed by bare trees. A graffiti-covered shed stands prominently on the side.
Graffiti in the middle of nowhere
A smiling man sitting at a table in a bar, holding a phone, with two plates of food featuring eggs, bacon, and red peppers, alongside cups of coffee.
A spot of lunch
A dirt path lined with trees on one side, leading toward the horizon under a clear blue sky.
The sun is shining!
A smiling man with a backpack standing on a city sidewalk, holding a walking stick and a map, with buildings and pedestrians in the background.
Ron in downtown León

We’d decided along the way that as we weren’t far from León to take a bus the last 19kms and spend the weekend in town. We felt we’d like another rest day and re-group. We were going to stay in Mansilla de las Mulas and walk into León the following day but as León is another big town we’d be walking through the outskirts of suburbia, car yards and the industrial side of town. Turns out that would’ve been the case anyway as the view from the bus in was no different. It was interesting waiting at the bus station for the bus as there was a bar which was crowded with a lot of locals, mostly men and I thought the bus trip would be crowded with so many waiting in the bar for a bus. I had to laugh as Ron, I and a couple of others got on the bus while the bar at the bus station partied on. Woohoo! Let’s hang out at the bus station bar on a Friday night!

A quiet park pathway lined with trees, benches, and colorful shrubbery, featuring fallen leaves on the ground, creating a serene autumn atmosphere.
A park in León we walked through to get to our hotel
A man sitting at a table in a restaurant, smiling while holding a glass of red wine and a phone.
Where’s my dinner?

I’m sitting now in a bar ravenous waiting for a restaurant to open at 8pm to get a meal. Spain is on a very different food clock. At least there is nothing to get up early for tomorrow.

Thanks for reading. Buen Camino! 😊

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