Camino del Norte Day 9

Today’s walk was surprising because it was probably the most picturesque we’ve done so far. We followed the coast from Unquera to our idyllic home for this evening, Llanes. A blow hole to treat us on the way too. We left Unquera as the sun was rising and headed straight up a hill to get the lungs off to an early start.

A picturesque view of a town at sunrise, nestled between hills, with a winding road leading down towards the buildings.
Looking back to Unquera
A scenic pathway leading through lush green fields towards mountains, with a small rustic structure on the right and a clear sky above.

We hit the countryside pretty quickly as we left Unquera. The farmland started as soon as we walked up the hill out of town.

A scenic view of a pathway leading into the countryside with a person walking towards the horizon. The sky is painted with shades of blue and orange as the sun rises, with a small structure visible on the left.
Looking back again at the sunrise

We passed through a few small towns as we walked today. We stopped at one for a long black coffee each and patata frittata to tie us over till we got to our destination for the evening. The sun was out with no breeze, so it got warm as we walked. Our hats were on for protection against the sun.

A serene rural path lined with wooden posts, surrounded by lush green fields and a distant view of buildings under a clear sky.
Heading down country paths
A quaint railway station surrounded by greenery and a curving track, with a two-story building featuring a red roof and rustic charm.

We followed the railway line most of the way today as well. A small gauge track and we only saw or heard a train once.

View of elevated concrete highway bridges above a natural pathway surrounded by greenery and mist.

We crisscrossed the main highway a few times, heading along the coast. We’ve seen this highway since leaving Bilbao.

Country house in the mist
A person walking along a coastal path with rocky terrain and a view of the sea in the background, surrounded by lush greenery and mountains.
Country house in the mist
A fisherman standing on a rocky cliff overlooking the ocean, with waves crashing below and a green hillside in the background.

We hit the coast before long, and the path led us to the cliff’s edge, where we passed a fisherman with his rod cast down to the depths below.

A small train passing through a wooded area, with a dirt path leading up to it.
We see the train for the first time
A scenic view of a pathway leading towards the coast, lined by lush greenery and eucalyptus trees, with a person walking in the distance and a structure labeled 'La Paz' visible on the right.


We come across our first beach for the day, La Paz. A little cove with a camping ground and nothing else, no shop or surf school. If you’re there to camp, everything comes in with you.

Two sheep grazing in a lush green field, surrounded by trees and foliage.
Farm animals, both young and old

The farmland we passed through was for cattle and grazing. The ground was pretty rocky in places where there was grass; there were cattle or sheep. Many bells sound today as the cattle all seem to wear a bell. We can’t quite work out why.

A person cycling along a dirt path surrounded by green vegetation and trees under a clear blue sky.
Plenty of bike riders using our path today
A person walking along a scenic dirt path surrounded by lush greenery and trees, with mountains visible in the background.
A scenic coastal path winding through lush green hills leading to the ocean in the distance under a blue sky.
The coast never too far away

A little diversion for us was the blow holes along the way. This one was active, and a few other pilgrims were having lunch nearby. The sound of the waves and the power of the boom as the water surged up and blew up was terrific—an excellent little interlude for us.

View of two cows grazing in a grassy area seen through a concrete tunnel with graffiti on the walls.

It was at about the 20km mark we began to see signs pointing us towards Llanes, our home for this evening.

A winding road lined with trees, with a sign indicating the distance to Llanes and Oviedo.
A scenic rural road surrounded by lush greenery and hills under a partly cloudy sky.
Llanes in the distance
A view of a charming street in Llanes, featuring colorful buildings and outdoor dining areas under a cloudy sky.
A street view showcasing quaint buildings and shops in a picturesque town, with people walking and socializing.
A picturesque street view in a town, featuring buildings with varying architectural styles, some with colorful facades and balconies, under a cloudy sky.
A street view in a lively town with colorful buildings, showcasing pedestrians walking along the cobblestone pathway under a cloudy sky.

Llanes seems like a posh little town and the prices for a beer seem to reflect that. Ron and I a looking for a place to go and eat that doesn’t break the bank balance. The hotel we’re staying in seems quite lovely, but the restaurant it has seems a little over the top for a couple of pilgrims in shorts and t-shirts. We’ll venture into town and find something cheaper and more substantial.

That’s it for today. Tomorrow is a long walk of 30+ km. We’re looking at changing direction on our trek again and taking what they call the Primitive Way, which goes inland slightly and doesn’t have long walks as the coastal ones do. We may not have the time to do that, though. We’ll see.

Thanks for reading and Buen Camino. 😎

A map of today’s walk is below.

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