Camino del Norte Day 10

Today’s walk was long—about 30km from Llanes to Ribadesella along the coast. There was a mix of country and beach today as we made our way westwards. The morning started cloudily and a bit drizzly but with a temperature hovering around 17C, so it wasn’t too cold; pleasant walking weather except for the drizzle.

A quiet street scene in a town with buildings on either side, featuring blue flags strung across the street and green trash bins in the foreground.
A town called Poo

There wasn’t much to see heading out of Llaves, just the usual outskirts of town boring stuff till we hit a town called Poo which we thought was pretty funny. Not exactly sure how it’s pronounced in Spanish, but I suspect it might be a short ‘o’ as in Po rather than Poo. After passing this town, we hit the beach a couple of times, bumping into some Americans doing the same walk. Plenty of other pilgrims about doing the same journey.

Scenic coastal path leading to rocky cliffs under a cloudy sky.
The coast
A person walking along a gravel path in a green countryside, with cows grazing in the background under a cloudy sky.
Coast and cattle
A rural path winding through greenery, with a weathered stone wall and a directional arrow painted on it. Mountains are visible in the distance under a cloudy sky.
Arrows point the way
View of a rocky beach with gentle waves under a cloudy sky, featuring a stone wall and a railing in the foreground.

A bit drizzly and grey by the beach. No one is swimming. The summer season has come to a close. All the local cafes and ice cream parlours were shut up for the season.

A serene view of a coastal building with a bell tower reflected on calm water, surrounded by lush greenery and distant hills under a cloudy sky.
An old church we passed with the cemetery out the front
A dirt pathway leads through lush green grass, with colorful houses visible on a hillside under a cloudy sky.
Farmland and suburbia close to each other
A scenic dirt path lined with eucalyptus trees, leading through green fields under a cloudy sky.

For the most part, today, we were on farm tracks that took us between main roads and towns. It was pleasant to walk in the countryside for a change rather than on the tarmac or beach—an idyllic day in the country. The rain eased up, but the cloud cover was still there, keeping us cool from the hot sun.

A scenic coastal path leading towards the beach, framed by greenery and a cloudy sky.
A coastal view featuring a cloudy sky, gentle waves crashing on the beach, and a person walking along the promenade next to a road.

We hit the beach one more time today, and the above photo looks back at where we’ve come from. A few die-hard surfers were parked checking out the waves, but no one was in the water.

A stone fountain in a quiet village square surrounded by trees and autumn leaves.

We had to find water along the way because we weren’t carrying our giant backpacks with 2-litre water tanks. This spring, the middle of a town provided fresh, clean water. While we were there, the locals came to fill their bottles too, so it must’ve been good.

A rural road lined with a stone wall, leading to traditional houses with red roofs and surrounded by lush greenery under a cloudy sky.
Down through more country lanes
A dirt path lined with bushes and trees leading towards a railway track.
We meet the railway again.
A gravel path leading through a green landscape with mountains in the distance and a cloudy sky.
The Camino signs and arrows are constant, it’s hard to get lost.

It was now Ron’s turn to feel unwell on the trip. I’d had my dose a few days back, and today he felt a little sub-par. Probably the same bug that I had, and he’d caught from me. We’d walked about 21km thus far, and he’d had enough. I went into a bar alongside the road and asked if they could call us a taxi into town. She gave me the number to call, which I did, but I gave her my phone to tell the cabbie the bar’s address and where to pick us up. It was about 10km more into town, so the fare wasn’t that much but a relief for Ron, who was flagging. We’ll see how he is tomorrow and whether I will walk on to the next town while he catches a bus or if we will walk partway again. Most likely the latter at this stage, but we’ll see in the morning. A shame that we’ve both caught a bug this time, but that’s how it goes, and we roll with it. Not much else we can do.

A view of a coastal town with colorful houses, trees, and flags, set against a backdrop of mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
The view from the hotel room in Ribadesella
A serene beach view at sunset with gentle waves and a dramatic sky, showing a quiet promenade lined with people.
Ribadesella Beach, lovely spot

So that pretty much rounds today’s walk up. Not much to report on but a good solid day’s walk. Challenging at times, pushing through discomfort and sore feet and, at times, tedious boredom, but I know that when I look back on these photos and times, it will be with fondness. Sometimes you want to be home with all the comforts and not living out of a suitcase, but I know when I get back home, I’ll wish I was back here in Spain. The grass is always greener somewhere, I guess.

That’s it for today; I hope you’ve enjoyed reading it.

Today’s map is below, including the cab ride. Buen Camino! 🥸

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