Camino del Norte Day 15

Today we set out from Soto de Luiñas to head to our destination for this evening, a quaint little town called Luarca. We had two routes to choose from today—a traditional way which goes inland, or the Costa route, which takes you along the coast. We opted for the latter hoping for more scenery and beaches. It was a challenging walk as it snaked around the coast with its various inlets, coves, and up-and-down valleys and hills. It certainly wasn’t in a direct line, so we assumed it was taking longer to do the Costa walk than going inland. We walked through many forests and on rough paths, which were challenging to walk on. Recent rains had made many patches boggy.

A person walking along a stone path towards a building surrounded by greenery and trees, with power lines visible in the sky.
Leaving our hotel in Soto de Luiña
A winding dirt path through a lush forest with tall eucalyptus trees and underbrush.
We head straight up hill on our way out
Dark tunnel overgrown with vegetation at the entrance, with graffiti visible on the walls.
We pass through a long creepy tunnel under the freeway
A sign directing hikers towards the Costa route, set amidst a lush green forest with fallen leaves on the ground and trees in the background.
Plenty of directions to lead the way

Last night, our hotelier, who was a cheerful chap told us he’d painted the arrows on the coastal path. He was the one who suggested we take that route as it would be more scenic than that of the traditional way. Most of the pilgrims we met today had chosen the same path. We met a Frenchman, another Czech woman and another young woman from Austria who had just finished studying medicine and was taking a break before starting work in November.

A narrow path winding through a lush, green forest with ferns and trees lining the sides, alongside a small stream.
Quite a few creek crossings today
A person walking on a narrow dirt path surrounded by lush green foliage and trees, with rolling hills in the background.
Everything is very green
A narrow trail surrounded by lush greenery and trees, with fallen leaves scattered along the path. A lone hiker is seen walking on the trail.
Alejandro was walking with us today again
A hiker walking along a narrow path leading to a pebble beach, surrounded by lush greenery and hills under a cloudy sky.
We come to our first beach for the day
A pebbled beach with waves crashing against large rocks, under a cloudy sky.

This beach was a pebble beach with no sand. It was interesting to hear the waves crash and recede on the pebbles as it sounded very different to a sandy beach. It was good to sit for a while and listen. We had a snack of oranges and chocolate. A few other pilgrims were also having a break to sit and take it all in.

A pebble beach under a cloudy sky, with gentle waves lapping at the shore and steep cliffs in the background. A few people are seen sitting on the beach.
Looking east down the beach
A scenic coastal view featuring a grassy foreground leading to a rocky shoreline and tranquil sea, under a cloudy sky.
More glimpses of farmland and coast
A rocky and muddy hiking path surrounded by greenery and ferns, showcasing the rugged terrain of a coastal route.
Boggy track
A scenic view of the coastline peeking through trees, with lush greenery in the foreground and the ocean in the background.
Another glimpse of the coast through some trees
A narrow, winding trail lined with greenery and ferns, surrounded by trees.
More of a bushwalking track than a path
Scenic coastal view featuring cliffs and ocean waves along a rugged shoreline beneath a cloudy sky.
Looking back down the coast eastwards from where we’ve come from
A scenic view of the coastline with rocky outcrops and trees along the shore, under a cloudy sky.
A rugged coast
A close-up of a small bird perched on a branch among green foliage and shrubs.
A little bird on the track ahead

At this point, we’d walked about 24km, and it was approaching 4 pm with about 12km to go into our town for the evening Luarca. We saw another service station ahead and decided to go there and book a taxi to take us to Luarca. Our Mexican friend was there to make the call for us which was a big help as my Spanish is terrible.

A panoramic view of the town of Luarca, showcasing its harbor filled with colorful fishing boats and surrounded by coastal buildings and green hills under a cloudy sky.
Luarca, a quaint little town

Our taxi driver was kind enough to take us into town via a route that would give us a photo opportunity of Luarca. It was beautiful to see from the vantage point he took us. He stopped the car and allowed us to get out, take in the views, and snap some shots.

So that’s it for today. Tomorrow is possibly a shorter walk so that we can rest a bit more. We were chatting today with some other pilgrims who’ve done different routes, and they’ve all said that the Norte route is the hardest as there are a lot of hills and long distances. I couldn’t agree more. It’s more challenging than the French way, although the weather has been better here.

For a map of today’s walk, you’ll find it below.

Thanks for reading and Buen Camino. 🚶‍♂️

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