Adios O’Cebreiro – El Camino Day 19

Posted on by James Altham
A scenic view of rolling hills and valleys under a clear sky, showcasing farmland with a blue and yellow sign marking a pilgrimage route.
We awoke to clear skies and magnificent views

After our ordeal last night of not being able to find a hotel in the rain we stayed in the albergue and slept in a room with 60 other beds. There weren’t that many pilgrims thankfully, about 30 or so. Plenty of snoring going on. My sleep was restless as I was awoken by someone walking past me and going to my bag. Not sure what they were up to but I did say something and they moved on. Nothing was missing in the morning but it did make me a little worried throughout the night. Perhaps they were fumbling for their own bag after coming back from the loo in the dark. Who knows.

A stone pathway leading through a village at dusk, with buildings on either side and a colorful sky with clouds overhead.
Sunrise over the town

Once again we were on top of a mountain and the mist and the gloom from the previous day had all but disappeared. Why does this always happen to us? We climb mountains in the gloom with nothing to see and not sure what to expect and awaken to see all the views clearly. Maybe the Lord is trying to tell me something.

A picturesque sunset over rolling hills, with the sun casting a warm glow and creating a misty haze in the valleys.
Sunrise over the mountains, beautiful

We didn’t shower yesterday as the albergue showers were a bit feral. It looked like all the crap from the track we’d just walked on had been traipsed through the showers too. It was safer to wait till the next day to shower then.

Today was mostly a downhill day with a little uphill at the start. As the sun was out we were looking forward to it. We walked to the next town and had breakfast there in a small hotel. Ham and cheese boccadillos washed down with a long black coffee. We were set to go.

A pathway lined with trees leading to a Camino de Santiago milestone marker, indicating the direction for pilgrims.
The path out of town
A winding road alongside a hillside covered in trees, with a power line in the distance under a clear blue sky.
The road turns to bitumen for a little while

We’re in the province of Galicia now and the paths seem to be way better kept than the ones previously we’ve walked. Today the paths were mostly gravel and well maintained. Galicians also signpost the path really well telling you how many more metres you have to go to Santiago. We’re about 138km out.

It was cold this morning and the gloves and beanie were on but not for long. The sun was nice and warm today.

We’re still on the mountain tops with a couple of high points to reach before we begin our descent into Triacastela, our town for tonight.

A winding road leads through a rural landscape with rolling hills and patches of greenery under a partly cloudy sky.
Little town we stopped at for breakfast up ahead
View from Alto do San Roque, featuring a statue and a sign indicating the altitude of 1270 meters.
Our first highpoint has a statue of a pilgrim

We started our walk today with our friend Esther from Korea. At this point we prayed and broke bread. We’ve been doing this of a morning together as we’ve walked the Camino. It’s been a good way to pray together and start the morning well. On Sundays we go to Mass at whatever town we happen to be in.

A scenic view of rolling mountains under a clear blue sky, with lush green and reddish-brown vegetation highlighting the slopes.
The view from up here
Silhouette of a statue depicting a pilgrim with a walking stick, set against a cloudy sky.
The pilgrim statue
A gravel path stretches into the distance, bordered by greenery and a blue sky, suggesting a tranquil hiking route.
Gravel continues
A gravel path winding through green hills under a clear blue sky.
Such a beautiful day
A gravel path winding through a rural landscape, with rolling hills and a clear blue sky above. A person is seen walking along the path, with trees and a stone wall on the sides.
A smooth path to walk on
A cobbled street lined with stone buildings, including a church, under a clear blue sky with a tree on the left.
We pass through a couple of small towns
Stone church with a cross on top against a clear blue sky, surrounded by trees.
With small churches
A winding path beside a road with a guardrail, bordered by bare trees and green fields under a clear blue sky.
The path right next to the road
A stone pathway leading towards a rustic building with a metal roof, surrounded by trees and hills under a clear blue sky.
We’re on the up again
Scenic view of rolling hills and mountains in the distance, with two tree stumps in the foreground.
The view from our second high point
A dirt path lined with bare trees and greenery, under a clear blue sky.
Our descent begins

We left our friend Esther here and Ron and I began our downhill walk. We had about 13kms to do from this point. The leg muscles got a good workout today that’s for sure.

A scenic view of a dirt path leading through grassy terrain, with a distant road and hills under a clear blue sky.
A lot of farms and farm smells
A picturesque dirt path surrounded by tall birch trees, leading towards a small village under a clear blue sky.
We pass through some small farm villages

The afternoon was beautiful and warm with a really peaceful atmosphere.

A gravel path winding through a peaceful landscape with bare trees on the right and rolling hills in the background under a bright blue sky.
Some lovely scenery too
A scenic view of rolling hills and a gravel path, with trees on the left and a distant valley visible under a clear blue sky.
Picturesque country scenes
A scenic path lined with trees and greenery, leading toward distant mountains under a clear blue sky.
A gravel path winding through green hills with trees and mountains in the background under a blue sky.

By this stage Ron and I were walking at a relaxed pace and soaking up the atmosphere and the sun. It really was a pleasant afternoon even with the occasional not pleasant farm smell.

A gravel path lined with wooden posts, leading through trees and under a clear blue sky.
Scenic view of rolling green hills and distant mountains under a clear blue sky, showcasing foliage and autumn colors.
A scenic pathway lined with trees, leading through a mountainous landscape under a clear blue sky.
A tranquil pathway in a rural setting, flanked by trees, with cows grazing on a grassy field in the background.

By this point we were coming to the end of our walk for the day. We could see Triacastela in the valley. We’d booked a hotel earlier, one with a restaurant and bar.

A picturesque view of rolling hills and a valley, with trees and sparse autumn foliage in the foreground under a clear blue sky.
Triacastela in the distance
A scenic pathway bordered by trees and a wooden fence, leading to farmhouses in a rural landscape under a clear blue sky.
Approaching Town
Scenic view of a stone wall and pathway leading through a green landscape with trees and a church bell tower in the background under a clear blue sky.

We made it! The picture above is the view from the hotel window. Time now for a shower and beer.

Today was a pleasant walk and being on the shorter side made it more relaxed. It certainly helped with the sun being out. Tomorrow should be more of the same. We walk into Sarria, a bigger town.

See you soon!

Buen Camino! 😎

For stats and a map of today’s walk you’ll find them below.

Published by James Altham

I'm a Sydney-based writer, photographer, traveller, and business owner. My writing explores faith, creativity, travel, photography, and the quiet wisdom found in ordinary life.